Plant Sense

Right Plant Right Place

Wed, 08 Mar 2023 17:56:13 GMT

Right Plant Right Place

Often the public thinks that they can pick and place plants in their landscape like furniture. Before you plant anything do a investigation of the zone hardness, soils and other factors. It's always better to plan and investigate before you plant. Work with a qualified, certified and registered Arborist for the best results.

https://www.webberlandscaping.com/landscape-designer

Fall Armyworms Wiping Out Dayton Ohio Lawns

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Tue, 31 Aug 2021 00:22:46 GMT

Fall Armyworms Wiping Out Dayton Ohio Lawns

The fall armyworm (Spodoptera frugiperda) annually migrates northward, invading much of the continental United States and Canada. Many lawns in the month of August of 2021 are being eaten to death in the greater Dayton, Ohio area. The larval (caterpillar) stage of the fall armyworm moth can cause severe damage to lawns. In summer, the moths lay clusters of eggs in cotton-like, greenish-white masses on structures (houses, mailboxes, fences, signs, etc.), shrubs and trees, and the newly hatched larvae drop down to the ground and “march” like an army to feed on the closest grass.

While the larvae are still small, damage may not be readily apparent. But when they reach their full size (about 1-1/2” long), they can eat the grass down to the soil. Significant infestations can defoliate a lawn entirely.

Lush green grass is the fall armyworm’s preferred food, so irrigated lawns of any type (warm- or cool-season) are at most risk. So are newly laid sod and newly seeded or overseeded lawns since these must be kept moist/irrigated until the new grass establishes roots.

Controlling fall armyworms is difficult since several generations can occur in one summer-through-fall season. Products that contain carbaryl (such as Sevin) or pyrethroids will be most effective while the larvae are still small. Mowing the turf and light irrigation before treatment can increase control. Repeat treatments may be necessary.

Resources:

https://turf.cals.cornell.edu/pests-and-weeds/insect-management/#caterpillars

Potter, D.A. and S.K. Braman. 1991. Ecology and management of turfgrass insects. Annu. Rev. Entomol. 36:383–406.

Controlling & Irradicating Invasive Plants

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 24 Apr 2021 09:54:08 GMT

Controlling & Irradicating Invasive Plants

Construction injury to trees and its effects on long-term health.

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 13 Mar 2021 10:39:20 GMT

Construction injury to trees and its effects on long-term health.

Many homes are often constructed or renovated near existing trees to take advantage of their aesthetic and environmental value. Unfortunately, the processes involved with construction can be deadly to nearby trees.

Recently we were assigned by a property owner to determine the health and condition of three trees commonly known as Silver Maple( Acer saccharinum). The property owner had recently purchased the property and had no information about the subject trees' prior treatment. The client was advised that we needed to conduct a starch test of each subject tree's condition. Starch tests provide the inspecting arborist a measure of the carbohydrate capacity of the tree in question.

All green plants produce sugar (energy)in their leaves during photosynthesis. The sugar is then either used in the leaves as an energy source for the growth or production of other essential materials or transported via the phloem (inner bark) to other parts of the tree.

The sugar that is not used immediately is linked together in long chains to create starch. Starch is the product the tree uses to store much of its energy reserves. By staining wood for starch, the level of the tree's energy reserves can be estimated. This information is beneficial when making a diagnosis of the tree's condition.

Our testing of these three trees determined that they were collective in poor condition since the starch tested yielded light color wood. If a tree is in good condition related to carbohydrate reserves, then the starch test will yield a dark-colored wood when exposed to the iodine mixture.

We discovered that these three trees had been severely injured ten years prior due to construction injury due to sidewalks, street curb, and underground pipe installation after reviewing our historical files and data.

These subject trees have poor growth rates, limb loss, decay, and are becoming a hazard to the public and property. The necessary take-home lesson is that trees are often the victim of people pressure disease(PPD). With good arboricultural and horticultural advice, PPD can be avoided if the tree's owner is willing to follow a qualified arborist's advice and guidance when managing their trees.

To learn how to manage trees that may be exposed to construction injury click here .

We are Saving Trees and Giving Back!

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 06 Mar 2021 15:46:57 GMT

Learn about how we are saving Century Old Oaks

https://www.dayton.com/what-to-know/boy-scouts-need-help-funding-restoration-of-world-war-i-memorial-site/CRCRRZK7WZHAPPK3VKYV27UEVI/?fbclid=IwAR1W4wYPa1Emyp8-XKLess6cSQ35pZ1c_Evvr_MJRNLiYKgsyZq4OKEJLpU

Properly Watered Trees

Sat, 29 Aug 2020 10:45:28 GMT

Properly Watered Trees

Lawn Care and Tree Injury by the Improper Use of Herbicides.

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 01 Aug 2020 13:14:39 GMT

Preventing tree damage and death by reading and following the pesticide label.

In the growing season of 2020, I have witnessed an increasing frequency of trees being injured and damaged by the improper applications of pesticides targeting weeds in lawns. For the most part, these pesticides are herbicides that are commonly known as synthetic auxin. Synthetic auxin herbicides are used often on residential and commercial properties for broadleaf weed control. Trees and plants damaged by these pesticides often have these symptoms:

Twisted leaves

Downward cupping on leaves

Narrow, strap-like leaves on the youngest growth

Synthetic auxin herbicides are products commonly known as 2,4-D, Dicamba, Weed Be Gone, and others. These materials are manufactured to mimic naturally occurring plant hormones. There are five types of hormones in plants that include auxins. Plant hormones are triggering devices in plants. Plant hormones are triggering mechanisms that cause growth, leaf drop/formation, root expansion, flower bud formation, and other plant processes. In the case of herbicides that contain synthetic auxins, they mimic naturally occurring auxins that result in uncontrolled cell division. The uncontrolled cell division causes plants like broadleaf weeds and or trees certain death or severe damage.

Many cases, the herbicides with synthetic auxins are indiscriminate broadleaf plant killers, especially if your tree has roots growing under your grassy lawn. Research has shown that trees have a massive root system that extends well beyond the tree's outer branches stretches over your yard. The root system of the trees in your lawn is made up of a vast network of the large, medium, and hair sized roots that are directly under the grass and weeds.

Tree roots are not covered by bark, but are covered by the epidermis and have a multitude of root hairs. The roots of trees readily absorb water, nutrients, and pesticides. Roots of trees are not structured internally on a cellular level to filter out, so to speak harmful substances like herbicides containing synthetic auxins.

So, even though you can't see any roots above your lawn from your trees, they are beneath your feet. The roots of your trees are just under the grass and the weeds. The roots of trees below the turf and weeds will readily absorb what's applied to the above-ground landscape.

The majority of herbicides containing synthetic auxins forewarn users not to apply these products were tree roots exist. The label of these products is the legal requirements on how the product is to be used. The label of any pesticides is the law. If the applicator fails to follow the label, then that person is guilty of breaking the law.

However, these label warnings are often ignored when the label states, "do not apply where tree roots exist." The failure to follow the labeling law results in damage, decline, and, in some cases, the death of trees. Herbicide injured trees can be killed and, in other cases, are more susceptible to diseases and insects and future decline.

The bottom line is don't use herbicides that forewarn you not use them near trees and their root systems. If do you suspect that your trees have been exposed to herbicides, you should contact a qualified arborist for an inspection to investigate if your trees have been exposed to pesticides.

How Many Tree Branches Can I Remove From My Tree?

Sat, 02 Mar 2019 12:58:57 GMT

Photo Source (Tree Dictionary)

This week I spent some time helping the team at Mark Webber's Landscaping conduct a tree risk assessment of a very large Ash tree. After the Ash inspection, I then inspected a number of other trees on the subject landscape. The property owner had unfortunately had her trees been mistreated by improper pruning. The term “seal,” rather than “heal,” is used to describe tree wound closure, since the wound still exists inside the tree even after it no longer shows on the outside. A properly pruned tree will create a better tree; however, a poorly pruned tree will result in a deteriorated condition. Trees have a natural defense response to wounds and pruning cuts. They form four types of walls to compartmentalize the area thus preventing the spread of decay organisms. However, if you prune too much from a tree, it will not have the energy resources to have the energy to compartmentalize.

Proper pruning techniques and timing are critical to long-term tree health. The most important principle to remember is that each cut has the potential to change the tree considerably. Tree pruning needs to be well thought out and based upon what science and the Best Practices of the International Society of Arboriculture.

In this case, the client's trees were excessively pruned by removing all of the subject inner branches resulting in a tree branch that looks like a lions tail. Lion's tail pruning creates tree branches that are likely to fail under normal weather conditions. In the case, the recommendation to this client was to do nothing or not to prune the subject trees for at least the next 6-9 years.

Pruning Dose

As a tree gets older the more difficult, it becomes for the plant to manage excess cuts. (See Chart/photograph above) When trees are young [Y] great amounts of symplast maintaining wood [L] can be removed. Symplastless wood is a term that is lucid to describe a tree or piece of wood or tree part that no longer maintains a symplast. As the tree matures [M] less symplast maintaining wood should be removed, and symplastless wood removal should increase [D]. As the tree approaches over maturity [OM] very little symplast maintaining wood [L] wood should be removed, and great amounts of symplastless wood [D] should be removed.

Bottom Line
If too many tree branches are removed or if the cuts are too large in older trees will result in further deterioration to the subject tree that may result in the loss of your valuable tree. You should use only Certified Arborist to make decisions about how to best manage your trees. Here are some important tips to follow for better trees:

• Start training trees with pruning while they are young and
newly established.
• Minimize the number of live branches removed at any one
time.
• Use proper cuts. Watch the branch collar and/or branch bark
ridge.
• Pruning dose should be determined by overall tree health.
• Reduce live-tissue pruning during times of drought.
• Remove smaller branches rather than larger branches.
• Do not top trees for any reason (heading cuts).
• Prune when trees are biologically active to expedite wound
sealing.
• Do not use tree wound dressings.

References
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning/dose/chart.html

Tree Pruning Essentials. Lindsey Purcell. Purdue University.2015

McKenzie, R. 2008. What’s Wrong with Topping Trees?, FNR-FAQ-14-W. Purdue University Cooperative Extension, West Lafayette, Ind., USA.

Tree Wound Response Growth

Sun, 17 Feb 2019 18:49:28 GMT

Maintenance really matters in trees

I recently was in South Florida, and I saw a tree known as the Gumbo-Limbo( Bursera simaruba ). The Gumbo-Limbo is a large semi-evergreen tree that can reach sixty feet in height, but it’s usually seen smaller in landscape plantings. The trunk and branches are thick and are covered with resinous, smooth, peeling coppery-colored bark with an attractive, shiny, freshly-varnished appearance. The Gumbo-Limbo is often referred to as the "tourist tree" because the tree's bark is red and peeling, like the skin of a sunburnt tourist.

Gumbo-Limbo is also considered one of the most wind-tolerant trees. and I always enjoy seeing its unique trunk and branch shapes from previous injury incidents. Trees in all climates are unique compared to other plants since they deal with injuries by compartmentalizing the area of injury by developing four distinct walls to surround the wound. Trees are commonly wounded, and the causes are many: broken branches; impacts, abrasions scrapes, etc. Wounds usually break the bark and damage the food- (phloem or inner bark) and water- (xylem or wood) conducting tissues. Wounds also expose the inside of the tree to organisms, primarily bacteria, and fungi that may infect and cause discoloration and decay of the wood. Decay can result in structurally weakened tree stems and unsightly trees and can shorten the life of a tree. Decay in a tree cannot be cured. However, proper tree care can limit the progress of decay in an injured tree.

Keep in mine some tree species are better than others at doing this, and the compartmentalization process requires the tree to be in high vigor to build and maintain these four walls. This process is called CODIT or the Compartmentalization Of Decay In Trees. Thus trees don't heal they seal defects off from water, bacteria, and fungi.

One of the reasons that trees like the Gumbo-Limbo seen in this photograph has all the twists, bends, wing-shapes, and irregular tapers and turns is it was injured at some point in time. The tree then responded by producing new wood fibers and encircling the wounded regions and successfully blocking water, bacteria, and fungi from entering the tree. Discoloration is the orderly response of the tree to microorganisms resulting in darkened wood but no strength loss. Decay is the orderly breakdown of tissue resulting in strength loss. The rate of the discoloration and decay process depends on the severity of the wound, position in the tree, size of the wound, time of year, species, tree age, and the types of infecting microorganisms.

Process of CODIT
The walls are numbered in increasing order of their ability to retard the movement of decay organisms. For example, wall 3 is stronger than wall 1. Wall 1 may or may not be present at the time of wounding. Walls 2 and 3 are present in the tree at all times. Wall 4 forms in response to injury.

Wall 1: Xylem vessels immediately above and below an injury plug with chemicals when a tree is injured. This plugging response forms wall 1. Some plugging normally occurs without an injury. Plugging forms a weak boundary in some trees such a Hackberry (Celtis) and Poplars (Populus), but is stronger in others such as many of the Oaks (Quercus). Because wall 1 is weak, decay in some trees can advance rapidly up and down the trunk from the injury resulting in long columns of decay and hollow branches and trunks.

Wall 2: The growth rings make up wall 2. The transition from one growth ring to the next retards advancing decay organisms. Decay organisms often have a tougher time moving across growth rings (wall 2) than they do up and down the stem (wall 1). The functioning of wall 2 can be demonstrated when you view a cross-section of a trunk or branch that was injured previously. A darkened region often appears to stop its advancement inward toward the pith at the boundary of one growth ring with the next. This is wall 2 working.

Wall 3: The rays make up wall 3. They have plenty of decay-fighting capability because they are rich in starch. Discoloration and decay have a tougher time moving across wall 3 that walls 1 and 2. The strength of wall 3 can be demonstrated by viewing a cross section of a trunk or branch injured several years ago. Notice that there is a clear demarcation between darkened tissue and normal light colored wood. If walls 2 and 3 fail and decay organisms break through, the affected trunk or branch can become hollow. Wall 4 forms the outside edge of the hollow.

Wall 4: This is the strongest boundary that retards spread of discoloration and decay in trees. This reaction zone forms from the cambium along the edge of the outer-most growth ring present at the time the tree was injured. It begins at the point where the tree was injured and it may extend all or part way around the tree. Wall 4 stays in the same position in the tree but may extend further around or up and down the trunk with time. It does not move out with the new cambium. There may be numerous wall 4s in a tree, depending on its wounding history. Wall 4 forms the edge of a hollow.

Wall 4 develops in response to many different types of injuries. It can take several years for wall 4 to reach the other side of the trunk - or it may never reach that far. Wall 4 extends above and below the injury essentially in the shape of a pipe. It may develop a few inches or many feet above and below the injury.

Managing Trees With Injuries
Trees have evolved and managed defects for thousands of years by using CODIT. CODIT is one of the reasons why we have such majestic old trees. However, once a tree has a defect, it is still an issue that should be part of managing a tree's long-term condition. So as your trees age, they should be inspected and managed to reduce defects and decay. Maintenance really matters in long-term tree health and potential for structural failures. If your tree is properly pruned and kept healthy by proper cultural techniques it is likely your tree's ability to use CODIT to its long-term advantage will likely be a benefit to you the tree's owner.

Sources
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/gumbo-limbo.html
Compartmentalization in Trees. Alex Shigo.1985
Shigo, A.L. 1982. Tree health. Journal of Arboriculture 8(12):311-316.
Shigo, A.L. 1986. A New Tree Biology. Shigo Trees & Associates, Durham, NH. 595 p.
Decay Development. Edward Gilman. 2015
Tree Wounds: Response of Trees and What You Can Do. Wayne K. Clatterbuck. The University of Tennessee. October 2006.

Frost cracks and winter damage to trees

Sun, 03 Feb 2019 21:07:08 GMT

Tree Trunk Injury

Today with temperatures above 32F, I noticed that my Red Oak tree ( Quercus rubra) contains two Frost Crack located on its trunk. These injuries are related to the recent deep freeze we experienced this week. Frost cracks are vertical cracks in the stems of trees. On sunny days in the winter, the bark will warm up, causing cells to expand in the bark and wood directly below the bark. As the sun sets, temperatures drop quickly, causing the bark to cool and contract. The wood under the bark does not cool as quickly, causing the bark to split. Frost cracks may first appear on very young trees that have not developed a thick layer of bark. The south and southwestern side of trees are most susceptible to frost cracks. Once damaged, the injured area can split back open often on very cold, winter days.

The frost crack on my Red Oak first appeared approximately 5 or 6 years ago during temperatures that had dipped near -10F. This half a decade old wound had successfully closed and in the fall of 2018 and appeared to have fully sealed.
Now the old injury has reopened, and another 7-8" crack has formed directly above the previous old one. Recent research suggests frost cracks develop as a result of an earlier trunk injury.

Not to be confused with Sun Scald
Sunscald most often occurs on the southwest side of young trees with thin bark. On a warm winter day, direct sun can heat exposed bark substantially. If freezing temperatures closely follow this heating, often at night, the death of the inner bark may occur. The injury will not likely be visible until spring growth resumes, and then appears as sunken
or discolored bark.

Should You Be Concerned
Frost crack wounds may never fully heal and could create an entrance for decay organisms. However, Frost Cracks are usually not fatal, although they may allow the entry of insects or disease. The tree will usually heal by itself through the growth of the living inner bark on the sides of the split. Good plant health care should always follow a tree injured by cold temperatures and those practices include:

Inspection by an (International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist

The timely watering of the tree during dry periods will help to optimize growth response in the tree. Increasing the growth response will help support wound sealing of the frost crack.

Proper fertilizer applications-too much or not enough nutrients can harm trees so be sure you are feeding your damage tree based upon the results of a recent soil test.

Don't use wound dressing. Twenty years of research have should that these materials provide no protection to tree wounds and actually slow the sealing process.

Sources:
Bark Splitting on Trees. The University of Tennessee. 2004 ( https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP630.pdf )
Frost cracks and winter damage to trees. Michigan State University.2012 ( https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/frost_cracks_and_winter_damage_to_trees )

Fall Weed Control

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Mon, 24 Sep 2018 12:25:23 GMT

Stop spring weeds now!

Every spring I lot of property owners and managers complain about weed problems that can be easily controlled in the fall prior. Those kind of weeds would include chickweed, henbit, dandelion and many others. To better understand how to manage weeds you need to know the biology and the life cycle of the plant in question.

LIFE CYCLES OF WEEDS
Weeds can also be classified according to how long it takes them to complete their development or life cycle. The three types of plant life cycles for weeds are annual, biennial, and perennial.

ANNUAL WEEDS
Plants that complete their life cycle in one year are annuals. They germinate from seed, grow, mature, produce seed, and die in one year or less. Annuals reproduce by seed only and do not have any vegetative reproductive parts. Annual weeds are easiest to control at the seedling stage.

BIENNIAL WEEDS
Biennials are plants that complete their growth in two years. The first year, the plant produces leaves and stores food. The second year, it produces fruits and seeds. They are easiest to control in the seedling stage.

PERENNIAL WEEDS
Perennials are plants that live for two or more years. Perennials can reproduce by seed or vegetatively. The plant parts that allow
perennials to spread without producing seeds include stolons (creeping above ground stems—e.g., white clover and strawberries),
rhizomes (creeping below ground stems —e.g., milkweed, quackgrass), tubers (enlarged underground stems—e.g., potato, yellow nutsedge), and bulbs (underground stem covered by fleshy leaves—e.g., tulip). Because perennial weeds can propagate (spread) underground, they can be the most difficult weeds to control. Removing the aboveground vegetation will not stop the weed from spreading.

Fall Weed control
Fall is the time to attack those weedy pests to get better results! Applications of pre-emergent herbicides as well as post directive applications in September through November will remove many soon to be unwanted weeds in the landscape beds for next spring. You should always follow label directions.

Tree Selection Matters

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sun, 09 Sep 2018 19:55:15 GMT

Right Plant, Right Place

Of any single investment you make to your home that will appreciate in value, is planting a tree. Trees provide a multitude of benefits that include: shade, aesthetics, color, fruit, wood and many more. Trees can live for decades to centuries if properly selected, planted and cared for. There are approximately 60,065 tree species in the world. These tree species have unique mature shapes that include, mature heights and width’s that have the potential to grow into utility wires and other nearby structures like buildings. Additionally, each tree species has a specialized site and environmental requirement including: climate, drainage, nutrition, soil pH, sunlight and other factors. Choosing the right tree should be a well thought out decision, as an inappropriate tree selection can result in a constant maintenance problem or even a hazard.

What To Consider When Choosing Trees:
• What purpose will this tree serve? Shade, privacy or design.
• How big will it get? When planting a small tree, it’s often difficult to picture the tree in 20 years, as the tree can possibly be shading your entire yard. Unfortunately, many trees are planted and later removed when the tree gets too big for its site.
• Does it have any particular insect, disease, or other abiotic or biotic issues that may reduce its usefulness? Certain insects and diseases can be serious problems on specific tree species.
• What is the average life expectancy of the tree? Some trees can live for hundreds of years, as others may live for only 20 or 30 years. Many short-lived trees tend to be smaller ornamental species. Short-lived species should not necessarily be ruled out when considering planting, as they can complement your existing landscape.
• Leaf color or flowers and fruits? Some species bloom for short periods in the spring or fall as others may have foliage that is reddish adding color to your landscaping year-round. You should seek a tree species that provides a four-season value including, an appealing bloom and foliage color, exfoliating bark and colorful fruits.
• Is overplanting the same tree species a good thing? Some species are over-planted not only on roadways, urban forests and right of ways but also in urban landscapes as well. Increasing the natural diversity of tree species provides wildlife habitats and limits the opportunity for a single pest to destroy a vast amount of tree populations at one time.
• Evergreen or deciduous trees? Evergreen trees will provide year-round cover and shade. They may also be more effective as a barrier for wind and noise. Deciduous trees will give you summer shade but allow the winter sun to shine in. This may be a consideration for where to place the tree in your yard.

Tips On Placement of Trees
• Proper placement of trees is critical for the trees long-term survival preventing any potential maintenance issues. Invasive roots can lead to cracked driveways and planting large trees too close to your home can shorten your roof’s longevity, clog gutters with debris and damage the perimeter drains of your home.
• Check with local authorities about restrictions or bylaws pertaining to the placement of trees. In many cases, they may be able to provide you with a list of recommended tree species for your specific location.
• Before planting your tree, consider the tree's full maturity height. When the tree nears maturity, will it be too close to your house, driveway, other large trees or structures?
• Consider your neighbors. An evergreen tree may block the winter sun from your next-door neighbors. Will it provide too much shade or overhang? Most plants require considerable amounts of sun, as you should consider how the placement of trees will affect other plants. Will it obstruct driveways or sidewalks?
• Call before you dig. Regardless of your landscaping project always identify utility lines, as you can have your utilities marked by calling your local utility company.

Once you have made the proper tree selection, you can now begin the task of planting a tree that can provide you with years of enjoyment. It’s Just That Easy!

Smooth Patch Disease

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Mon, 23 Jul 2018 14:28:43 GMT

Smooth Patch is a disease of a tree's bark and is extremely common and non-lethal . There is no need to treat this issue. This condition is the result of a fungal infection that is restricted to the outer bark, causing it to slough off. The bark layer remaining is smoother and lighter in color than uninfected, normal bark. Patches can vary from a few inches to a foot or more in diameter. Several fungi can cause this condition.Smooth patch fungi invade only the nonliving, outer bark tissues, they do not affect the health of the tree .Smooth patch is caused by a variety of fungi in the genera, Aleurodiscus, Dendrothele and Hyphoderma . Aleurodiscus oaksii on white oak appears to be one of the most common forms of smooth patch in the midwest. American elm, American hornbeam, hop hornbeam, sugar maple, burr oak, other oaks, willow and birch may also be affected.

Nitrogen "Overdose" of trees

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Mon, 16 Jul 2018 13:30:48 GMT

Too much of a good thing and kill your tree!

The months of July and August are a time when plants can struggle and may be in decline. Many plant owner and managers may notice that valuable plants are exhibiting symptoms and signs of chlorosis. Chlorosis is abnormal reduction or loss of the normal green coloration of leaves of plants, typically caused by nutrient deficiency or by disease or lack of light and by herbicide exposure.

However, one of the greatest mistakes that I see, is when tree owners and professional diagnose a plants issue to be a "xyz" deficiency without performing adequate testing to determine the root cause of the problem. Keep in mind plants utilize and need varied amounts of minerals to conduct vital life process. The only true measure of what a plant really needs is by performing a soil and a foliar test. Foliar test is a plant tissue analysis, which measures nutrient levels within plants tissue and identifies nutrient deficiencies and toxicities of 11 mineral salts and are provided in as % or ppm(parts per billion) basis. Recently, I read a test result for a client and that Nitrogen levels inside the subject Oak tree that were at 8.31% of the necessary range of 2.0-4.0%. Therefore, the tree had a Nitrogen overdose and the only source was from the lawn care products being applied near the subject tree. More so, tree health can be severely damaged by overdose treatments as well as under applied treatments.

Keep in mind a tree recycle approximately 60-70% of their Nitrogen needs from a year to year basis. Living tree systems must utilize fixed or reduced nitrogen (energized N) for incorporation into amino acids, nucleic acids, and proteins. Recycled nitrogen must be factored into how much to feed a tree or the lawn that is nearby. Reduced nitrogen has been energized and made chemically reactive by addition of electrons. Reduced nitrogen is electron-dense and viable as a biological building component or a reaction coupler inside a tree. Reduction, fixation, or a change in oxidation states, is essential for nitrogen use by a tree. The amount of inorganic nitrogen present in soil has a direct effect on tree health and growth. At decreasing concentrations, beginning well before visual symptoms are present (because of internal recycling and reallocation of nitrogen), is nitrogen deficiency.

At high nitrogen concentrations, toxicity and physiological dysfunction can be problems. There is an intermediate zone of moderate nitrogen concentrations where tree health and growth is “adequate” for sustained growth. This adequate zone is the target for management activities. Trees attempt to balance shoot mass and photosynthesis rates against root mass and nitrogen uptake. A tree will adjust living mass of roots or shoots to correct any deficiency in photosynthesis rates or nitrogen uptake rates. Carbohydrate shortages and/or nitrogen increases will initiate more shoots —nitrogen shortages and/or carbohydrate increases will initiate more roots.
Prescribing N

Supplemental nitrogen enrichment should be treated as a fined-tuned, carefully considered, constantly modified, whole tree prescription process. The whole tree wins or loses with changing reactions of one major organ or resource. Nitrogen prescription involves prudent and reasonable treatments carried out in a timely manner without site and tree damage.

The nitrogen dose provided by supplemental additions, and its timing, are part of a comprehensive management prescription that should vary primarily by ecological season of the year, a tree’s ability to successfully and effectively utilize nitrogen additions, and by the life stage a tree. These considerations deal with successful capture and use of nitrogen by a tree as it grows, and with minimizing environmental impacts to untargeted systems (i.e. nitrogen to weeds, streams, and soils).
Whole tree reactions to significantly increased nitrogen levels:
— Increased shoot size.
— More foliage growth stimulated.
— Photosynthesis & stomates sensitive to water stress.
— Lengthened growing season.
— Increased amino-nitrogen content.
— Decreased starch in whole tree.
— Increased pest effectiveness.
— Decreased defensive materials produced.
— Carbon allocation to fine roots delayed.
— Decreased carbon allocation to the roots.
— Root carbon storage reduced.
— Root sugar concentrations increase.
— Decreased root reactivity to damage and stress.
— Poorer cold tolerance in root system.
— Encourages starch use, not photosynthesis increase

It is very likely the high levels of nitrogen combined with the elevated pH will also cause for decrease in uptake of Magnesium and Phosphorus and will directly affect the trees health. The bottom line is when nitrogen sources like from lawn care applications are made they can have dramatic effects of tree health and well being.

So don't guess, soil & folar test and apply fertilizer products to your lawn, plants and trees based on those results!

Conifers don't bloom

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sun, 27 May 2018 13:50:27 GMT

Gymnosperms the ancient plants

I got a email inquire from a client asking why they had be-bee like structures on their White Pine trees. It was a reminder of botany 101 that we have two major groups of plants. One being angiosperms(flowering plants) and gymnosperms( Cone bearing plants).Seed ferns gave rise to the gymnosperms during the Paleozoic Era, about 390 million years ago.

Conifers produce flower-like structures in the early spring, but technically, no, they don't produce true flowers. Immature cones of conifer trees are short-lived structures that make a brief appearance during the months of May and June. Male pollen cones are round structures that range from hot pink to deep purple.Most people are familiar with conifer cones, although they tend to call all of them “pine cones.”

In common with other members of the class Gymnospermae, pine trees have no flower or fruit. Rather, the ovule (and later the seed) are "naked" (gymno = naked, in Greek) and are, in all members of the Pinaecae family, wedged between the scales of a woody "cone," so named because it is generally cone-shaped. The cone bearing the female gametes is larger and is commonly recognized simply as the pine cone, but also can be called the female cone or megasporangiate strobilus.

In some texts the name for the structure bearing the male gamete also incorporates the name cone, such as the "male cones" or "pollen cones," but these structures are clustered, are much smaller and deteriorate quickly. They really shouldn't be called cones, although there is not a good common term for them. These "male cones" are properly called microsporangiate strobili, which is not an easy common usage term. Also the term "catkins" (from cat tails) which is used in the case of the angiosperms doesn't describe them well and is not commonly used for gymnosperms. The pollen shed from the microsporangiate strobili is carried to the megasporangiate strobili (cones) by the wind. Pines are not pollinated by insects.
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Pine cones (herein referring only to the true female cones) have a peduncle (stem) which attaches to the branch (usually the upper branches) of the tree and this continues through the entire length of the cone as the rachis (axis). Multiple cone scales arise along the length of the rachis in a helical fashion to give the cone most its mass and characteristic external appearance. The cone scales each carry two ovules which usually develop into seeds on their ventral (the side closer to the distal end of the cone) surfaces. Hence these scales are also called ovuliferous scales or seed scales. Lack of pollination, genetic defects or other mishaps may result in sterile (or no)seeds. A smaller bract scale subtends and merges with the cone scale dorsal surface and is quite inconspicuous. (The bract scales can be clearly seen on Douglas fir cones because they are longer than the seed scales and protrude as the familiar trident tags.)

The seed scale has two parts. The first is the umbo which is the first year's growth and distal most portion of the the two year old cone's scales. The umbo in many of the yellow pines (Diploxylon) has a sharp spike ("prickle"). The second part of the seed scale grows in the second year (after fertilization) of the seed scale and is called the apophysis. Pine cones reach maturity in two years in almost all species.

Fertilization of Fruit Trees

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Mon, 07 May 2018 16:07:07 GMT

The step by step process.

I often get the question how much should I fertilize my fruit trees and grapes. Beyond telling the client to do a soil test ,it is also important second step to check what's inside the plant by foliar analysis or a leaf test. Leaf tests are done in June.

Provided below is a basic formula to follow. Keep in mind the amount of fertilizer added is based upon last years annual growth(Average shoot elongation). For Stone fruit trees (i.e. peach, cherry, plum and nectarines) can be fertilized at a maximum rate of 1/8 pound of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter (measured 1 foot above ground level). Apply this amount if the tree’s annual growth is on the low end of the recommendation. Keep in mind excess fertilizer applications will dramatically affect fruit quality and yields.

Non-Bearing Trees Annual Growth Rate
Apple,Peach,Tart,Cherry,Plum & Sweet Cherry 12 to 36 inches

Bearing Trees Last Year’s Annual Growth Rate

Apple Non-Spur 6 to 18 inches
Apple Spur-type 6 to 10 inches
Pear 12 to 16 inches
Peach & Nectarine 12 to 18 inches
Tart Cherry 8 inches
Plum & Sweet Cherry 8 inches

Apply less fertilizer if the previous season’s growth rate falls in between the recommended growth increments. If too much nitrogen is applied it can lead to excessive leaf and tree growth over fruit production.

The maximum rate of nitrogen to apply to pome fruit trees (apples and pears) is 1/10th pound of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter (measured 1 foot above ground level). Apply this amount if growth the previous year was at the low end of the recommended rate. As with stone fruits, apply less nitrogen the closer the actual growth rate approximates the recommended growth rate. Placement of Fertilizer Nitrogen (N) and other nutrients, with the exception of zinc, can be broadcast over the ground and watered in, or applied in a band in the irrigation furrows prior to irrigation. Do not apply fertilizer against the trunk as tissue damage may result. Spread the fertilizer evenly and do not dump it in a pile at the base of the tree or injury will result. If the area to be fertilized is more or less than 1,000 sqaure feet, calculate the amount of fertilizer to apply accordingly. Foliar applications can also be used if appropriate materials are chosen.

You should maintain a record on the amount of nitrogen applied each year and the resulting growth. Such records provide a guide for the amount of nitrogen fertilizer to apply to achieve the desired results.

Grapes

General Fertilizer Application Methods It is generally agreed that soil applications in established vineyards should be in a 3 to 5 ft. wide band, parallel to the row. Take care to keep the band 18” to 24” away from the base of the vines. This is most important on young vines.

Soil pH Grapes fall into two general categories related to pH preference. American grapes (Lambrusca) generally prefer a lower soil pH than do European varieties (Vinifera, French hybrids). University publications and other authorities differ somewhat on the ideal soil pH for the two types of grapes, especially the American varieties. These sources indicate that American grapes perform best when the soil pH is between 5.0 and 6.0, with several suggesting a soil pH of from 5.5 to 6.0. It is generally agreed that the European varieties do best with the soil pH near 6.5. The following is a list of some varieties by type: AMERICAN VARIETIES (Lambrusca) Alden Concord New York Muscat Reliance Steuben Bath Delaware Niagara Remaily Suffolk Red Buffalo Himrod Norton Schuyler Van Buren Canadice Mars Price Seneca Vanessa EUROPEAN VARIETIES (Vinifera, French hybrids) Aligote Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay Landot Seyval Blanc Aurore Carmine Cardonnel Merlot Vidal Blanc Baco Noir Cayuga White DeChaunac Pinot Noir Bignoles (ravat 51) Chambourcin Foch Rayon d’Or Cabernet Franc Chancellor Gewurztraminer Riesling (also called White Riesling

Nitrogen (N)

Grapes do not have a high N requirement, when compared to many other crops. In fact, a high plant N content late in the season is often detrimental to the quality of both types of grapes, whether for jams, juice, jelly, or wine. High plant N levels late in the season can also adversely affect the vines ability to withstand a severe winter. However, inadequate N will reduce yields and profits. It is important to understand and identify the needs of a specific crop, or section of the vineyard. New Plantings There is little in the literature to suggest a different N rate for new plantings. Some sources recommend about ½ the rate of N for new plantings. However, a logical case can be made for maintaining the same, or increasing the rate of N on new plantings, since the goal is to grow vines, not grapes. The use of a higher N rate should be tempered by the possibility of having a soft succulent plant going into winter or creating a significant amount of carry-over N in the first year of bearing fruit.

Additionally, the subject trees and grapes should under go yearly foliage analysis testing to determine the best fertility regimes.

Crab Germination has begun!

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Mon, 23 Apr 2018 12:23:30 GMT

The real story about crabgrass.

(Photograph Source MkWebber 2015)

According to the growing degree days( http://www.gddtracker.net ) we have just crossed over into 100 days for the required time for crabgrass seed to germinate. Today is April 23rd ,2018 and historically crabgrass germinates in southwestern Ohio around April 15th and I have seen it germinated as early as April 1. Keep in mind there are two primary species of Crabgrass. The first being Digitaria sanguinalis , which is the Large or Hairy Crabgrass. The second being Digitaria ischaemum or commonly known as Small or Smooth Crabgrass.

What Crabgrass looks like

Large crabgrass has 2–6" long, fairly wide, “hairy” leaves. Seed heads are tall spikes with 2–9 “branches” which appear purplish when producing seed from mid-spring through fall. Look for it in disturbed areas of turf and soil. Can grow up to 2 ft. tall. Small/smooth crabgrass is low growing and does not have the fuzzy leaves of large crabgrass. The best way to identify any grass is by studying its nodes, collar, ligule, and sheath

Here is how Crabgrass grows.

Crabgrass seeds are dormant for a short period of time after they shed from plants. Seed germination is related to soil temperature. When the soil temperature at the surface reaches 55°F for four or five consecutive days, crabgrass begins to germinate. Seeds germinate best from early spring to late summer. Crabgrass continues to grow until midsummer when days become shorter. Vegetative growth slows and plants enter their reproductive stage. Purplish seed heads form until frost kills the plants. Plants that emerge early in the season and have a long period of vegetative growth are much larger and more competitive than plants that germinate late in the season. Crabgrass grows well in hot dry conditions, and poor soil, and will out compete turfgrasses that are under heat stress.Large crabgrass grows well in both lawn and field. Small/Smooth is more often found in turfgrass.

Best Management Practices
Maintain proper soil fertility by conducting a soil test every 3–5 years and following the . Fertilize at the proper time for turfgrass root development, primarily fall (late spring at times when turf is weak and thin), irrigate if needed, mow at proper height (removing no more than 1/2 of the blade, amend poor soil, choose proper turfgrass seed for your conditions, buy quality seed, overseed thin spots in fall or early spring, remove thatch. Take steps to maintain shoot density and rooting. Don't rely completely on pre emergent herbicides to control crabgrass.

Treatment Methods
The basic principle of a crabgrass management program is to prevent re-infestation by seeds. Controlling seed production for several years will help reduce the viable seed supply. Crabgrass is not likley be controlled in one growing season because of the great number of viable seeds that accumulate in the soil from years of infestation. A good weed management program in landscapes is one that consists of both focused cultural practices and the use of herbicides as appropriate for the control of any given species. Satisfactory control may require several seasons of conscientious adherence to a good management program. Establishing a dense and healthy stand of turfgrass is the best way to control crabgrass and other annual weeds including grasses and broadleaf weeds. The proper mowing height and frequency, fertilization and irrigation are part of a sound weed control program and should be practiced throughout the growing season. Seed in late summer for new lawns. Crabgrass will die out after fall frost. Mow at 2–3" to “shade” the soil and keep it cool. Water deeply once a week rather than frequent light irrigation during drought conditions. Avoid summer fertilization because crabgrass benefits more than turfgrasses at this time, unless the turf is being used for summer sports, and is irrigated, in which case there should be moderate fertilization provided (minimum 50–75% slow release nitrogen).

Rose Rosette Disease (RRD)

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sun, 22 Apr 2018 20:02:32 GMT

Don't ignore this issue in your landscape.

Photograph Source Mk Webber2018

Rose rosette disease (RRD), a disease believed to be caused by the recently identified Rose rosette virus,
has been spreading through much of the wild rose population of the Midwestern, Southern, and Eastern
United States for years. It has been confirmed in cultivated roses in Ohio and other states. RRD is of great concern to many landscape managers and property owners because it is known to be lethal to the wild multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora)

More so, it is potentially lethal to many ornamental rose species and cultivars. It has long been known that the eriophyid mite, Phyllocoptes fructiphilus, spreads the disease.

Symptoms
Symptoms of RRD are highly variable, depending on the species or cultivar of rose affected. This variability
can complicate diagnosis. Some of the more recognizable symptoms include rapid elongation of new shoots followed by a development of witches’ brooms or observed by the clustering of small branches. Leaves in the witches’ broom are small, distorted, and may have a conspicuous red pigmentation, although red pigmentation is not a consistent symptom. Canes on some species or cultivars develop excessive growth of unusually soft and pliable red or green thorns that may stiffen later. When this symptom is present, it is diagnostic for RRD. Symptomatic canes may also be noticeably thicker than the parent cane from which they emerged, or they may grow in a spiral pattern. Flowers may be distorted
with fewer petals than normal, and flower color may be abnormal. For example, flowers that are typically
a solid color may be mottled. Buds may abort, be deformed, or be converted to leaf-like tissue. Infected rose plants often die within one to two years.

When all of the above symptoms are present, diagnosis is relatively straightforward. However, a diseased plant
may exhibit few of these symptoms, especially in the early stages of the disease. By the time symptoms are severe and recognizable, the disease is likely to have already spread to neighboring plants.

Some symptoms, such as leaf coloration, may be subtle. Although some diseased plants develop very obvious red pigmentation, others exhibit a less striking reddish-pink color on leaf undersides or along the margins of otherwise green leaves. Because the new leaves of many rose cultivars normally have reddish pigments, it may be difficult to determine whether the reddish color is abnormal or not. Therefore, it is important to continue to monitor symptoms on suspect roses.

On RRD-infected plants, the reddish color does not go away, whereas on healthy plants, the reddish color usually
disappears as the leaf matures. Witches’ brooms on some diseased plants may be an unusual color of green that can be mistaken for symptoms of a nutrient deficiency. However, nutrient deficiency should affect the whole plant. If these symptoms appear only on parts of the plant, they are probably not due to nutrient deficiency, and RRD is more likely.
The witches’ broom symptom itself is not necessarily diagnostic for rose rosette disease. This symptom can also occur in response to certain types of herbicide injury. For example, if glyphosate, the active ingredient of the herbicide Roundup, contacts green tissue of rose plants in the fall, it is moved by translocation to the buds, and symptoms do not become evident until those buds emerge the following spring. Witches’ brooms with yellow, narrow leaves on clusters of shoots are typical of glyphosate injury. The commonly used broadleaf herbicide 2,4-D can also cause leaf distortion on roses. Unless plants are injured again, symptoms of herbicide injury should disappear by the following year.

Other symptoms of rose rosette disease that may be
expressed include:
• Blackening and death of the canes on some cultivars.
• Short internodal distances.
• Blind shoots (shoots that do not produce a flower)
That remains blind.
• Greater sensitivity of the reddish purple tissue to frost.
• Roughened, “pebbly” texture to leaves.
• Increased susceptibility to the fungal disease, powdery
mildew. This is especially evident when nearby
roses known to be highly susceptible to powdery
mildew do not develop signs of this disease.

Control
No effective control is available for rose rosette disease in existing infected rose plants, but the disease may be
prevented from spreading to healthy plants by using a combination of the following approaches.

Cultural Control
Early detection of the disease is the key to effective cultural control. Any suspect roses should be removed
and destroyed immediately or monitored for continued symptoms and removed as soon as presence of RRD
is ascertained. In some areas, burning is permitted and can be used to destroy diseased plants. If burning is not allowed in the area, plants should be bagged and removed. Diseased plants that have been uprooted should not be allowed to remain in the vicinity of healthy roses because they can continue to serve as a source of inoculum.

If possible, R. multiflora plants — which frequently serve as the source of inoculum — should be eliminated from the immediate vicinity (325 feet radius) of rose nurseries and gardens. Locations where individual multiflora rose plants have been removed should be monitored for regrowth, and any regrowth should be removed and destroyed. Multiflora rose over larger areas is difficult to control and complete removal may not be practical. To prevent infection of new transplants, avoid planting cultivated roses on hilltops or downwind of known multiflora rose plantings where the cultivated rose transplants are more susceptible to invasion by the mites.
Space plants so that canes and leaves do not touch each other. Eriophyid mites do not have wings and must crawl from plant to plant. Proper spacing makes it more difficult for the mites to move within a planting.

Resources
Amrine, J. W., Jr., and D. F. Hindal. 1988. Rose Rosette: A Fatal Disease of Multiflora Rose. West Virginia
University Circular 147. Morgantown: West Virginia University.

Amrine, J. W., and S. Zhao. 1998. “Research on Aerial Dispersal of Phyllocoptes fructiphilus (Acari: Eriophyidae),
Vector of Rose Rosette Disease.” American Rose, March 1998, 28-29.

Laney, A. G., K. E. Keller, R. R. Martin, and I. E. Tzanetakis. 2011. “A Discovery 70 Years in the Making:
Characterization of the Rose Rosette Virus.” Journal of General Virology 92:1727-32.

Peck, A. 2007. Rose Rosette: A Web Book. Updated May 2007. www.rosegeeks.com

Pressure Washing Trees "Really"

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 07 Apr 2018 16:28:59 GMT

Don't Hurt Your Trees

Photograph Source (National Garden Association)

I have been a practicing arborist and horticulturist since the mid-1970's, and it seems that every spring somebody out there offers a new twist on what's best for the client. In the last year or so I have been contacted by a person who claims he provides a so-called has a business that pressure washes trees. He claims it washes off the pollutants off of the tree bark. I have explain to him this is not a advisable practice and would strongly recommend he refrain from further damaging trees.

Why You Shouldn’t Use a Pressure Washer on Trees

Pressure washers are called power washers for a reason. They are 10 to 50 times stronger than your garden hose. As you can imagine, that much power will cause damage to a tree!

What happens if I pressure wash my trees to get it clean?

Pressure washers are inherently super-powered hoses. Their motor or engine intensifies the flow of water, which then sprays 1,000-to-4,000 pounds of pressure per square inch (PSI). Conversely, your faucet or hose flows at about 50 PSI.
That extra force quickly rips and tears the outer bark and exposes the living cells of tree to unnecessary harm. Depending on the PSI and type of tree, your tree can lose chunks of its bark, and it is likely to pressure washing a tree can damage the tree cells under the bark.

Pressure washers set to their lowest setting, are too strong for trees. More so, if the spray from the pressure washer hits the trees' canopy, it will likely remove or shred the leaves and damage important leaf or flower buds. In fact, pressure washers with a minimum of 2,000 PSI are recommended to debark trees that have been cut that are to be stored for long-term storage.

Tree Biology Say's No To Pressure Washing Trees

The bark of a tree consists mostly of two zones of inner and outer bark.

The inner bark or phloem actively contributes to the tree's life
processes: its tubular cells form the "plumbing system" through which sugar and growth regulators, dissolved in water, are distributed to other parts of the tree from the leaves and buds where they are made.

The outer bark consists of layers of inner bark cells that have died and cracked as they have been pushed outward by the tree's growth; outer bark forms the tree's first line of defense against damage by insects, people, heat and cold, and other enemies. Pressure washing will destroy and remove the outer bark layer and expose the tree inner plumbing system to fungi & bacteria that will likely damage it.

Additionally, trees exposed to pressure washers will likely sustain serious damage that may cause the tree to be irreversibly damaged.

Soil Region's Really Matter

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sun, 25 Mar 2018 18:10:53 GMT

What Soil and Soil Regions of O,A,B and C are you trying to grow your plants in?

One of the classic comments that property owners like to say is: " my soil is lousy" . However, to determine how great or mediocre your soil is you need to conduct the proper investigation of the conditions in any site to decide what plants will or will not grow. Unfortunately without the adequate investigation of soil conditions the choices made in plant selection and fertility treatments may not adequately meet the conditions that actually exist.

The National Cooperative Soil Survey identifies and maps over 20,000 different kinds of soil in the United States. Most soils are given a name, which generally comes from the locale where the soil was first mapped. Named soils are referred to as soil series. Soil survey reports include the soil survey maps and the names and descriptions of the soils in a report area. These soil survey reports are published by the National Cooperative Soil Survey and are available to everyone.

Soils are named and classified by physical and chemical properties in their horizons (layers). “Soil Taxonomy” uses color, texture, structure, and other features of the surface two meters deep to key the soil into a classification system to help people use soil information. This system also provides a common language for scientists and people making choices about plant selection and management.

Soils and their horizons differ from one another, depending on how and when they formed. Soil scientists use five soil factors to explain how soils form and to help them predict where different soils may occur. The scientists also allow for additions and removal of soil material and for activities and changes within the soil that continue each day. Soil Forming

Factors that create soils

Parent material
Few soils weather directly from the underlying rocks. These “residual” soils have the same general chemistry as the original rocks. More commonly, soils form in materials that have moved in from elsewhere. Materials may have moved many miles or only a few feet. Windblown “loess” is common in the Midwest. It buries “glacial till” in many areas. Glacial till is material ground up and moved by a glacier. The material in which soils form is called “parent material.” In the lower part of the soils, these materials may be relatively unchanged from when they were deposited by moving water, ice, or wind. Sediments along rivers have different textures, depending on whether the stream moves quickly or slowly. Fast-moving water leaves gravel, rocks, and sand. Slow-moving water and lakes leave fine-textured material (clay and silt) when sediments in the water settle out.

Climate
Soils vary, depending on the climate. Temperature and moisture amounts cause different patterns of weathering and leaching. Wind redistributes sand and other particles, especially in arid regions. The amount, intensity, timing, and kind of precipitation influence soil formation. Seasonal and daily changes in temperature affect moisture effectiveness, biological activity, rates of chemical reactions, and types of vegetation.

Topography
Slope and aspect affect the moisture and temperature of the soil. Steep slopes facing the sun are warmer, just like the south-facing side of a house. Steep soils may be eroded and lose their topsoil as they form. Thus, they may be thinner than the more nearly level soils that receive deposits from areas upslope. Deeper, darker colored soils may be expected on the bottom land.

Biological factors
Plants, animals, micro-organisms, and humans affect soil formation. Animals and micro-organisms mix soils and form burrows and pores. Plant roots open channels in the soils. Different types of roots have different effects on soils. Grass roots are “fibrous” near the soil surface and easily decompose, adding organic matter. Taproots open pathways through dense layers. Micro-organisms affect chemical exchanges between roots and soil. Humans can mix the soil so extensively that the soil material is again considered parent material. The native vegetation depends on climate, topography, and biological factors plus many soil factors such as soil density, depth, chemistry, temperature, and moisture. Leaves from plants fall to the surface and decompose on the soil. Organisms decompose these leaves and mix them with the upper part of the soil. Trees and shrubs have large roots that may grow to considerable depths.

Time
Time for all these factors to interact with the soil is also a factor. Over time, soils exhibit features that reflect the other forming factors. Soil formation processes are continuous. A recently deposited material, such as the deposition from a flood, presents no features from soil development activities. The previous soil surface and underlying horizons become buried. The time clock resets for these soils. Terraces above the active floodplain, while genetically similar to the floodplain, are older land surfaces and exhibit more development features.

These soil forming factors continue to affect soils even on “stable” landscapes. Materials are deposited on their surface, and materials are blown or washed away from the surface. Additions, removals, and alterations are slow or rapid, depending on climate, landscape position, and biological activity.

When mapping soils, a soil scientist looks for areas with similar soil-forming factors to find similar soils. The colors, texture, structure, and other properties are described. Soils with the same kind of properties are given taxonomic names. A common soil in the Midwest reflects the temperate, humid climate and native prairie vegetation with a thick, nearly black surface layer. This layer is high in organic matter from decomposing grass. It is called a “mollic epipedon. ” It is one of several types of surface horizons that we call “epipedons.” Soils in the desert commonly have an “ ochric” epipedon that is light colored and low in organic matter. Subsurface horizons also are used in soil classification. Many forested areas have a subsurface horizon with an accumulation of clay called an “argillic” horizon.

Soil Orders
Soil taxonomy at the highest hierarchical level identifies 12 soil orders. The names for the orders and taxonomic soil properties related to Greek, Latin, or other root words that reveal something about the soil. Sixty-four suborders are recognized at the next level of classification. There are about 300 great groups and more than 2,400 subgroups. Soils within a subgroup that have similar physical and chemical properties that affect their responses to management and manipulation are families.

Soil Horizons
Most naturally soil horizons have an "O,""A,""B" and a "C" horizons. The O horizon is at the very top and resulted from recent decomposition of organic matter. The A horizon is the fertile topsoil that in most cases of where plants derive nutrients and a lot of biological activities are occurring. The B horizons will have plant roots, and these are the areas of the soil that become critical to tree survival during excess drought conditions and anchorage. The C horizons are very limited in nutrient availability, have little to no organic matter and very low on oxygen. Many cases the soils that exist in the urban landscape today contain a large portion of C horizon soils that have mixes of A and B horizons. The A and B are buried under the C horizons. The C horizons can be made productive under proper management and treatments.

Soils In A Urban Reality

Many cases these original plotted conditions have changed due to urbanization. The horizons in many instances are inverted, and the rich plant regions of O, A, and B are buried by the C horizons. So its imperative that you anyone making decisions about fertility, plant selection, and plant management determine the chemical, physical and biological conditions of the soil in which you are managing in your landscape. The C horizons can be made productive under proper management and treatments.

Help is only a phone call away

Mark Webber's Landscaping conducts 1000' of soil tests for clients, and we advise plant owners and managers how to best manage your landscape, and what plants will or won't work in their landscaping.

https://www.webberlandscaping.com/testing-and-analysis

Dormant Applications of Horticultural Oil Can Help Control Troublesome Pests

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Thu, 15 Mar 2018 14:04:56 GMT

Spring provides an excellent opportunity to kill insects that winter in vulnerable stages on leafless twigs, or on last year’s hardened off evergreen leaves or needles. The absence of tender leaf tissue makes it possible to use higher concentrations of oil that can kill insects without harming the plant. Dormant oil applications can have the added advantage of protecting beneficial insects and pollinators that are not active on these plants during the dormant season.

What is a Dormant oil application and how does it kill insects?

Oil products that can be applied in the dormant season contain between 97 to 98.8% paraffinic oil plus a surfactant. Products that are 98.8 % pure are called superior summer oils and can be applied at a 4% rate in the dormant season. Whereas those products that are 97-98% pure are called dormant oils. These are used at a 2% rate in the dormant season. Insecticidal oils dissolve and penetrate the waxy shells of insects and mites where they strip the fat out of insect tissues. Insects shrivel up and die when their tissues can no longer function to help them breathe air or retain liquid.

When in the Dormant season can oils be used?

Apply oil to trees and shrubs with a historical problem of mites, armored scales or woolly aphids during the dormant season before trees and shrubs break dormancy. Temperatures must be above 40˚ F for 24 hours and < 70 ˚ F. Oil can strip the wax from the needles of blue-needled evergreens, including some spruce, junipers, and cedars and turn them green. In some cases, this can result in leaf burn. Chances of leaf burn are less when applications are made in spring than late fall. This is because the new leaf growth in spring can shade the oil treated leaves and shelter them from the drying effects of wind. Red maples and black walnuts can also be burned by dormant oil applications. Do not apply with sulfur-containing pesticides. See the pesticide label for a complete list of susceptible plants.

Which insects are most easily killed by dormant applications?

Spider mites: All stages that winter on plants are readily killed by dormant applications of oil. Most notable species include honeylocust spider mite, European red mite and spruce spider mite. Because these applications can also kill some natural enemies, it is best to limit applications to plants that had severe outbreaks last fall.

Armored scales who do not winter as eggs:

Only armored scales can be controlled by applications of oil in the dormant season. Those species that winter as eggs (oystershell scale, some pine needle scales) can survive sprays of oil because only the top layers of eggs are killed. In contrast, those scales that winter as adult females or immatures (euonymus scale, San Jose scale, and obscure scale). Control of Japanese maple scale with dormant oil is difficult because many can winter with an extra layer of the shell under their waxy covers. Soft scales that produce honeydew like calico, and tuliptree scale cannot be controlled by applications of oils.

Woolly Aphids that winter as adults or immatures: Pine bark adelgids, and woolly apple aphids are aphid like insects that winter on the trunk of pine and apple trees. Application of oil will dissolve their waxy wool and kill them.

Additional Resources:

https://www.webberlandscaping.com/plant-health-care-experts

How often should I fertilize my yard? Will my lawn fertilization/treatments applications hurt my trees?

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Wed, 14 Mar 2018 12:20:08 GMT

In the spring I hear this question a lot: How often should I fertilize my yard? For any tree or plant or lawn to be successful, it must have an ample supply of nutrients from the soil that can be transported from the roots to various parts of the tree, including the leaves, to support the plant's essential functions like photosynthesis. For generations, the thought of many green industry professionals has been that all plants, including trees and lawns, need to be fertilized on a regular and on-going basis. Industry regulations and standards suggest that fertilizer applications should be carefully considered and done only if there is a laboratory test that indicates that the target plant is lacking in one or more of the required nutrient’s to support a healthy plant. In fact, scientific research has shown that over fertilization is more harmful to trees than under fertilization(Coder 2017). Coder further states that trees recycle up to 60% of the yearly Nitrogen needs into the forthcoming year's needs. Nitrogen needs of a tree are affected by many circumstances.

One of the most significant, but often overlooked conditions changing nitrogen requirements, is the fundamental perennial growth form of a tree. When trees are young, their whole mass is filled with living cells with significant nitrogen demands. As trees age, they begin to shed inefficient parts and tissues, concentrating nitrogen into those tissues which provide positive benefits to the whole organism. The shedding process includes branch self-pruning, leaf and twig abscission, and heartwood formation. Constant nitrogen loads (or increasing loads) after a tree has reached its full site respiration load and begins to shed inefficient parts can be wasteful of the nitrogen resource added and disrupt effective tree functions.

Whole Tree Reactivity

Whole tree reactions to significantly increased nitrogen levels through enrichment include increased growth, size, and amino acid content. Unfortunately, there is an interaction between increased pest effectiveness and decreased the production of defensive materials within a tree. Generally, shoots are emphasized over roots and food storage with larger nitrogen loads. Whole tree reactions to nitrogen shortage are not simply opposite of high nitrogen content reactions. Tree reactions to nitrogen shortages include decreases in most growth processes except for absorbing roots.

No one can adequately or professional provide fertilization to a lawn or tree or a landscape without performing a soil test. From that soil test, the proper doses of nutrients should be levied or prescribed for the whole landscape including the trees and the turf. A special consideration that the lawn care or tree professional must consider is the prescribed fertilization one group of plants doesn't adversely affect another.

The ANSI A300 (Part 2) - 2011 Soil Management a. Modification, b. Fertilization, and c. Drainage states that soil modification shall be used to meet an objective (section 10.2.1 “Reason”). More importantly, the ANSI standard under section 15.2 states that: “soil and/or foliar nutrient analysis should be used to determine the need, formulation, and rate of fertilizer.”

Don't Guess Soil Test

Without soil testing and/or foliar analysis it is impossible to determine the need, formulation, or rate of fertilizer to use when fertilizing a plant. Additionally, before fertilizing your lawn a Certified Arborist should be consulted to determine if any of the proposed treatments applied to the lawn will cause harm to your trees and landscape plantings. Many of the products like broadleaf weed control materials are being applied improperly and causes serious damages to valuable trees and landscape planting, even though the use labels forewarn the lawn care operators of these potential to harm. To get an accurate and useful soil test result: the soil sample must follow a proper soil collection (sampling) protocol.

These are the critical factors of soil sampling protocols:

• Collection devices: The best way to collect soil sample cores is with the use of a soil probe. Most soil probes feature a window slot in the cylinder of the probe for easy sample recovery. Some probes are used without a liner and others can be purchased to be used with a liner. Probes can be purchased at varying lengths and diameters. Un-plated, rust-resistant nickel-plated or stainless steel models are available.

• Root Zone Depth: Collecting soil cores at the right depth is critical and pulling the samples from the soil zone where a plants root system is located will provide the most accurate sample results. Most trees in the urban landscape have roots at a depth of 4-24” depending on the site and species. It’s important to adjust the depth of collections by doing sample cores and looking for plant/tree roots that exist in that zone of the collection to know the best sample zone to pull samples from.

• Taking a representative sample: Most soil scientists tell us that a minimum of 10-12 cores (sub-samples) or about one cup of soil should be collected for every 8,000 square feet of the area sampled. The general rule is to pull one sub-sample at a distance of every 10-15 feet from the last one collected.

• Avoid Contamination: When collections are made be sure to remove debris like grass/thatch or mulch from the soil sample. Then place all the sub-sample cores collected into a clean non-metallic bucket. Thoroughly mix the sub-samples in the same collection bucket before bagging the final sample to send to the lab for testing. Especially if you are testing for microorganisms, the sample should be kept out of direct sunlight, due to the potential perishability of the microorganisms.

Unwarranted Claims

If lawn care company claims you need any number of applications of fertility, I would advise you(the consumer)to ask the question did the lawn care provider do a soil test? More so, what is the basis of their recommendation? Is it based on a soil test? If not, buyer beware that your plants are likely being over or under fertilized, which could cause more harm than positive results.

Learn more here: https://www.webberlandscaping.com/testing-and-analysis

References:

The Buckeye Arborist November/December 2017
ANSI A300 (Part 2) - 2011 Soil Management a. Modification, b. Fertilization, and c. Drainage
• Soil Science: February 1942 - Volume 53 - Issue 2 - pp 154
• ANSI A300 (Part 2) standards developed by the Accredited. Standards Committee. Best Management Practices – Tree and Shrub Fertilization
• Skogley, C. Ro, and F. B. Ledeboer. "Evaluation of several Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue strains maintained as lawn turf under three levels of fertility." Agronomy Journal 60.1 (1968): 47-49.
• Mowing Height and Nitrogen Rate Affect Turf Quality and Vegetative Growth of Common Carpetgrass. HortScience July 2000 vol. 35 no. 4 760-762
• Soldat, Douglas J., and A. Martin Petrovic. "The fate and transport of phosphorus in turfgrass ecosystems." Crop Science 48.6 (2008): 2051-2065.
• Lehman, John T., Douglas W. Bell, and Kahli E. McDonald. "Reduced river phosphorus following implementation of a lawn fertilizer ordinance." Lake and Reservoir Management 25.3 (2009): 307-312.
• Bierman, Peter M., et al. "Phosphorus runoff from turfgrass as affected by phosphorus fertilization and clipping management." Journal of environmental quality 39.1 (2010): 282-292.
• Rosen, Carl J., Peter M. Bierman, and Roger Eliason. "Soil test interpretations and fertilizer management for lawns, turf, gardens, and landscape plants." (2008).
• Guillard, Karl, and Kelly L. Kopp. "Nitrogen fertilizer form and associated nitrate leaching from cool-season lawn turf." Journal of Environmental Quality 33.5 (2004): 1822-1827.
• Kussow, W. R. "Phosphorus runoff losses from lawns." Better Crops 88.3 (2004): 12-13.
• Cornell University Agronomy Fact Sheet #5: Soil pH for Field Crops; #6: Lime Recommendations; and #19: Soil Management Groups; and #23: Estimating Cation Exchange Capacity from Cornell Soil Test Data:

Trees Talk To Each Other!

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Wed, 07 Mar 2018 14:29:07 GMT

I recently watched a video were Dr. Suzanne Simard. She is a professor of forest ecology and teaches at the University of British Columbia. She has tested theories about how trees communicate with other trees. Her work has shown that trees of different species will trade and share resources with each other. Simard research determine that trees communicate by sending chemical and hormonal signals to each other via the mycorrhizal mycelium Her research determine that trees that need more carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus and carbon, will get those resources from other trees. Her research further determined that trees that have some resources to spare, will send elements back and forth to each other until the entire forest is balanced. This is a inspiring discussion of the below ground of world of plants and how it works.
You can watch her video at https://youtu.be/Un2yBgIAxYs

Yes it is Spring!

183:719323955 (Mark Webber) — Sat, 03 Mar 2018 12:19:05 GMT

Winter is over?

You may have noticed that meteorologists and climatologists define seasons differently from “regular” or astronomical spring, summer, fall, and winter. So, why do meteorological and astronomical seasons begin and end at different times? In short, it’s because the astronomical seasons are based on the position of Earth in relation to the sun, whereas the meteorological seasons are based on the annual temperature cycle.

The Astronomical Seasons
People have used observable periodic natural phenomena to mark time for thousands of years. The natural rotation of Earth around the sun forms the basis for the astronomical calendar, in which we define seasons with two solstices and two equinoxes. Earth’s tilt and the sun’s alignment over the equator determine both the solstices and equinoxes.

The equinoxes mark the times when the sun passes directly above the equator. In the Northern Hemisphere, the summer solstice falls on or around June 21, the winter solstice on or around December 22, the vernal or spring equinox on or around March 21, and the autumnal equinox on or around September 22. These seasons are reversed but begin on the same dates in the Southern Hemisphere.

Because Earth actually travels around the sun in 365.24 days, an extra day is needed every fourth year, creating what we know as Leap Year. This also causes the exact date of the solstices and equinoxes to vary. Additionally, the elliptical shape of Earth’s orbit around the sun causes the lengths of the astronomical seasons to vary between 89 and 93 days. These variations in season length and season start would make it very difficult to consistently compare climatological statistics for a particular season from one year to the next. Thus, the meteorological seasons were born.

The Meteorological Seasons
Meteorologists and climatologists break the seasons down into groupings of three months based on the annual temperature cycle as well as our calendar. We generally think of winter as the coldest time of the year and summer as the warmest time of the year, with spring and fall being the transition seasons, and that is what the meteorological seasons are based on. Meteorological spring includes March, April, and May; meteorological summer includes June, July, and August; meteorological fall includes September, October, and November; and meteorological winter includes December, January, and February.

Meteorological observing and forecasting led to the creation of these seasons, and they are more closely tied to our monthly civil calendar than the astronomical seasons are. The length of the meteorological seasons is also more consistent, ranging from 90 days for winter of a non-leap year to 92 days for spring and summer. By following the civil calendar and having less variation in season length and season start, it becomes much easier to calculate seasonal statistics from the monthly statistics, both of which are very useful for agriculture, commerce, and a variety of other purposes.

Source : https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/meteorological-versus-astronomical-seasons